
Since we’re nearing the end of winter, and more importantly, the winter specials, we decided to treat ourselves to one last one. We were saving the best for last, so this past Thursday we found ourselves at Chefs Warehouse & Canteen in Bree Street. This special caught my attention a couple weeks back and has been in my thoughts ever since. Chefs Warehouse was doing a collaboration with their sister restaurant upstairs, Merchant on Bree. Chefs Warehouse focuses on globally inspired tapas, while Merchant is a nose to tail restaurant that highlights simplicity done right, both with their ingredients and what they do with them. The winter special was R595 per person sharing, and the menu was divided into sections showcasing the best of the best from each restaurant.
“It’s the type of setting that makes you want to sip slower and let the meal unfold like a story.”
Once we arrived, we were immediately met with the iconic red awning and bold lettering of ‘Chefs Warehouse & Canteen’ making the entrance impossible to miss. It feels understated yet confident, like you’re about to step into something classic. We were greeted by the host and were shown to, in my opinion, the best seat in the house. We sat by the window with a direct view of the busy street. I was very happy that I was able to partake in one of my favourite hobbies, people watching. It was the perfect balance, the hum of the restaurant inside, but with Cape Town’s city energy right outside. The natural light was pouring in through the tall windows and bouncing off the glassware and plates on the table. It caused an effect that was bright but still intimate. I absolutely loved the interior, the exposed brick walls paired with the sleek black finishes and warm wood gave the room that blend of raw, urban edge softened by elegance. Overall, the vibe was relaxed and sophisticated. It is the type of setting that makes you want to sip slower and let the meal unfold like a story.
We started by browsing the drinks menu. How can you not have a glass of wine? Especially with the sun shining down on your face and being in such a beautiful environment. It would be a crime not to. I ordered a glass of Sav since my mom taught me at a very young age the acronym ABC (anything but Chardonnay). As I mentioned earlier, this special had been on my radar for a while, so while ordering our wine, we told our waiter we were ready to commence on our flavour journey. Our wine arrived and I could tell it was nice and cold as the glass was almost frosted, no need for ice cubes! This was perfectly chilled, smooth, and dry. “Aghhh”. Just delightful. Soon to follow was our first course, “From The Larder”. This charcuterie board arrived looking like it had its life together. Neat, curated, and everything in its lane. Reminded me of the numerous times I told people to stay in theirs. Looking at this board, I almost wanted to send those people a photo of it to show them that it is indeed possible to do so. Anyway, just like those people did, I was about to make a total mess of everything. Where to begin… As a bread lover, I started with the thick sliced, lightly toasted sourdough and lathered it with the fancy piped duck liver pate. It instantly melted into the warm bread. My first bite was something you would write a book about. The pate was rich and over the top indulgent while the sourdough was crisp yet fluffy. This was a great first impression. I then tried the terrine, and let’s be honest, it wasn’t the prettiest on the board. A bit rustic, like it just came from chopping wood outside. But then you taste it and it’s earthy, savoury, and surprisingly elegant. A little underdog moment. I really enjoyed all the different textures, I actually ended up eating it on its own, it didn’t need anything added to it, it was a star on its own. One of my other favourite bites of this board was the tiny but mighty bagel and pairing it with the pickled veggies and ricotta dip. The bagel was dense and light at the same time, if that makes any sense, and the dough itself was slightly sweet too. It was the perfect humble base for the tangy, Cape Malay spiced pickled veg. Not your usual limp pickle, but crunchy, spiced, and zingy. Then the creamy and calm ricotta dip rounded out all the flavours and textures. The drizzle of olive oil added a nutty and fruity taste and a glossy mouthfeel too. The other little nibbles on the board were also very delicious. The olives were shiny and plump. The snackable fruit of the group. Not stealing the spotlight, but adding that essential salty hit. Then of course, the charcuterie selection. They draped on the board like designer fabric. Glossy, thin slices with fat ribbons catching the light. Salty, savoury, and bold, basically the diva of the spread. This course reminded me of a summery afternoon at a winefarm, but even more delicious since we have some serious chefs at work here. Snacking on this diverse spread while sipping on some crisp white wine was utter perfection. Let me just add that everything on this board was house made. I find that very impressive.
After soaking up the sun, sip sipping on some crisp wine, and devouring the snacks in front of us we decided to stretch our legs and do a little mosey about. Our waiter took us upstairs and into the Merchant’s famous larder. He explained to us that this is where all the food from our charcuterie board came from. Now the name of the first course made sense, it was literally from the larder. This room is a foodie’s heaven. Think jars of various pickled vegetables, cured meats hanging from above, and much, much more. The smell reminded me of an authentic deli I went to in Italy when I was young. I could have spent hours in there, minus the cool fridge temperature.
Once we were done exploring upstairs, it was time for our next course. We got ourselves seated and an array of dishes were placed on the table. Once again, I was unsure where to begin because everything looked so divine. I decided to be logical and go from left to right. The lamb sausages were first up. These juicy, flavour packed little bites were perfectly brown on the outside and still tender with it. It came with caramelised onions that leaned on the sweet and sticky side, the kind that coats your tongue in the best way. This was served alongside some mustard and sauerkraut that cut through the richness. Honestly, it was giving a boerie roll at a braai energy, but dressed up without the bun. A low carb Karen would be delighted. It was rustic and nostalgic, yet refined. This was comfort food elevated without losing its South African roots.
The dish in the middle was the west coast mussels in a creamy sauce served with amagwinga (AKA South African vetkoek). I took the golden little pillow of fried bread, broke it in half and dipped it into the hot, silky, and decadent dashi. I scooped up as much goodness as I could possibly fit on the bread and popped it into my mouth, after slipping a bit here and there but thankfully not on myself. The broth was smoky, savoury, and deeply umami and the sweetness of the bread contrasted well with all the rich elements. It also acted as the perfect sponge, soaking up all the flavours. I loved the jalapeno atchar, it added a clever South African twist as well as some necessary tang and spice, bringing the right hit of acidity and heat. The mussels were plump, fresh, and briny and I must say there was a generous scattering of them. This dish was absolutely delicious. It had that type of depth that makes you want to lick the bowl (if you’re not too polite to do so).
We have now made our way to the right, and the last dish of this course. The beetroot tart tatin with ricotta. I am actually glad this one was last on the list because it was on the sweeter side, so it acted like the dessert of the three plates. First of all, let’s talk about how it looked, it was truly a work of art on a plate. Glossy, ruby red slices of beetroot laid on top of that buttery pastry, finished with bright pops of fresh radish and a garden of microgreens. I cut into the tart and the golden flaky pastry shattered gently. I made sure to formulate the perfect bite with a little bit of everything on my fork. The pastry was slightly caramelized from the beetroot juices, so it had a subtle sweetness tucked into the rich layers. The beetroot was soft, syrupy, and deeply roasted. None of that raw earthy harshness. The generously dolloped house made ricotta was smooth, mild, and milky. It brought about a real creamy element to balance out the tart. It had that cheeky “is this a savoury dish or a dessert?” But hey, I’m not complaining. It made it memorable and fun.
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I sat back into my chair with a full belly, and I glanced over to Tumi with a cheeky little thought. We are not big drinkers, thank goddess, but I was having a particularly difficult week and almost needed more than wanted another glass of wine. I may only be 153cm tall but somehow less of a lightweight than a pretty tall Tumi. Anyway, I somehow convinced him and we ordered our second round of drinks. I decided on some rose, because, rose all day, am I right? Right. It was light, crisp, and subtly sweet and the perfect little break from the food and my worries.
This brings us to the next course of tapas styled dishes, this round was “From Canteen”. Not only was the presentation impeccable, but the smells coming from the table of eats was heavenly. I decided to mix it up and go from right to left, rebel, I know. I started with the glossy, caramelised block of pork belly that was on a bed of corn salsa that looked vibrant and inviting. The meat was so tender, you could have used a spoon to cut into it. Sweet, sticky, smoky… That smokehouse vibe, but luxurious. The charred corn was juicy little flavour bombs, bursting with sweetness, while the creamy salsa brought balance and richness. I loved the incorporation of chipotle, it added some heat and cut through all the indulgent elements beautifully. Pro tip, dip the crunchy corn chips in that salsa, it’s the perfect dip.
Next, I tried the tandoori linefish that was in a pool of golden tikka sauce with jewel toned garnishes, pink pickled onions, bright green mint, and pearly coconut flakes. The sauce was comforting and aromatic, full of spice without being overwhelming. However, in my honest opinion, the fish itself wasn’t quite right. I can’t tell you what it was, freshness maybe? Texture? I am unsure, but Tumi thought so too. Maybe it was just an off day, I don’t know. Luckily, the supporting elements made up for it. I lathered the garnishes in the sauce and I loved the tang of the onions, nuttiness of the coconut, and the coolness of the mint against the heat of the curry.
After two decadent dishes, I was thrilled that there was the perfect little intermission snack next in line. A golden, crispy tangle onion bhaji that looked playful and rustic. I also love any excuse to eat with your hands. I broke it apart, it was steaming and my nose was instantly hit with fragrant spices. I dipped it into the creme fraiche and popped it into my mouth. The bhaji was light, crunchy, spiced to perfection, and the onions were ever so slightly sweet and caramelised. Together with the cool and tangy dip, it made for the ideal nibble that had me reaching for more.
Lastly, but certainly not least, the famous Chefs Warehouse risotto, and iconic for a reason. This warm, creamy canvas was dotted with bright green pesto, golden nuts, and if I am not mistaken crispy parsnips. It was incredibly rich, cheesy, and decadent. The kind of risotto that makes you want to slow down and savour every bite. The rice was perfectly al dente and had a silky consistency. The herbaceous pesto added brightness, and the nuts gave a gorgeous crunch, both cutting through all the luscious creaminess. If risotto had main character energy, it would be this.
We ended the day on a high note, and a nostalgic one for a matter of fact. We were served two different dishes for dessert. One was a lemon tart which looked like a piece of sunshine on a plate. Vibrant lemon curd, topped with delicate golden kataifi strands and caramel coloured honeycomb. The contrast of textures was just gorgeous. Crisp pastry, silky curd, and pillowy labneh. The curd was bright, zesty, and unapologetically tart, balanced by buttery pastry richness. The honey labneh brought a mellow, almost floral sweetness. It immediately took me back to my grandma’s baking days. The same punchy lemon flavour she always insisted on, wrapped up in this elegant, modern plating. Nostalgia in couture.
Now for the last dish of the day, the maize dessert. It looked earthy and rustic with playful textures. Soft sponge, glossy caramel, and a perfect scoop of ice cream. Whimsical but familiar, like a memory reimagined. It transported me back to two separate times in my life. The soft, moist polenta sponge together with the creamy ice cream took me back to my early childhood breakfasts of pap, milk, and sugar. The burnt mealie caramel mixed together with the smooth ice cream tasted like my breakfasts before primary school, cornflakes drowned in sugar and love. I couldn’t stop smiling with every bite. This dessert doesn't just taste good but makes you feel something.
As I am sure you can tell, I had an absolutely phenomenal afternoon. I am so happy I got to experience this winter special of the collaboration of these two restaurants before it ended. I am very excited to return, but my only issue is deciding which one I’ll eat at first… Hmm, decisions, decisions. While I try to figure that out, I highly recommend going to either Chefs Warehouse & Canteen or Merchant Bar & Grill. You will not be disappointed.
Thank you for a memorable flavour journey! Till next time!